Traveling
& Tasting in France |
| The first half of our story.
In May the hordes of tourists have not yet arrived. With
the northerly latitude the sun peaks through the blinds before
6am, and retires around 10pm.
In the morning the only thing stirring is the Boulangerie
as people get their bread--we consumed more bread per day
than normally eaten in a week--the atkins diet will never
make it in France.
Even in a city of seven million people, wall-to-wall fashion
and haut couture, you realize Paris is a modern extension
of the pastoral country-side, consumed in all things agriculture.
In the city I felt like I was in a safer, much older Manhattan.
Outside the city on it's flat plains and quilt-work of crop
fields, I envisioned Kansas or Nebraska.
Cultural Dichotomy #1: Parisians have
no issue with a two hour lunch, but drive like everyday is
the Le Mans road-race. Living in a world where cellphone,
stick-shift and Taco Bell burrito all work together like a
yuppie symphony moving down Peachtree Industrial, I had to
sedate myself to sit and enjoy a two hour lunch in Paris.
And don't even think about twitching to ask for that tab--you
won't see your waiter until next week.
Oh, but despite my self-imposed anxiety and hyper activeness,
the lunches are incredible. In fact, the saying goes, you
won't find a bad meal in France. So true.
This thing called Aperitif. What a wonderful
invention. In the states it is simply a drink before a meal.
In France, it is a custom whereby one deliberately sets apart
time to share a drink and to socialize, engendering civility
and conviviality. The beverages are not strong spirits, nor
does the food satiate as the purpose is simply to pique and
stimulate the appetite. Really it is a ritual whereby it is
it's own social occasion, complete within itself. Meaning
that like lunch or dinner, it is set for a time and place,
and no implications for anything more are made.
The selection of aperitif is tied to the sub-region, thus
a Bordelais might opt for a Pineau des Charentes; a Burgundian
a Kir or Kir Royale; a Catalan from southern France a Banyul;
and a Provencal a Bandol. In Paris, the city affords you the
ability to try all of these, with the traditional faire such
as Suze, Campari, Pastis, Beaujolais, Amer Picon, Dubonnet,
Champagne, and on and on. I found I really enjoyed the bitter/sweet
marriage of the Americano Maison, with Vermouth and Campari,
Gin, and who knows what else. |
View from the outside platform at top of Eiffel Tower. We were
fortunate to have weather like this every day--high 70's. |
My wife Lelia in front of Notre Dame, just across the Seine
from where we stayed. (6th district) |
Aperitif in Parisian cafe'. |
Aperitif with friends at Chateau Plessis-Fortia in The Loire,
our residence while in that area. Regional wine Chinon (cabernet
franc), along with a Southern Rhone were served. |
Aperitif with Lelia, companions Newton and Oo-do, and our gracious
hostess, Viviane Mennesson of Chateau
La Pujade, during our stay in the Languedoc. |
The Food. As mentioned earlier, in a sea
of fresh agricultural products, amidst deep cultural mores
around cooking, we were exposed to the best of everything.
We purchased mushrooms from the mushroom farmer, raw honey
from the bee-keeper, confitures and jams from road-side houses
who showed us their "production" areas, home-made
foie gras of duck, goose, and cheeses and sausages like you
wouldn't believe.
We ate succulent pigeon, fresh water eel caught that day
from the Loire, free-range rabbit, lamb and chickens. The
butter from the Brittany and Normandie areas is nothing less
than legendary, due to the uniquely lush grass eaten by grazing
cows and goats there. |
Aperitif before our last dinner in France. Nibbling on olives
picked from trees behind us, and sipping a regional favorite,
the sparkling Blanquette de Limoux. |
| May is also the peak of asparagus in France, and the delicate
white asparagus with a trio of sauces was a common accompaniment.
The third course was usually the Plateau des Fromages, whereby
you'd select three incredible artisan cheeses. The last course
for lunch was dessert, followed by a cigarette for our French
friends; and for dinner, dessert was followed by digestifs such
as porto, eaux-de-vies, brandies or cognacs, and then cafe au
lait, ending with a fine cigar or cigarette. |
When in Rome...
While I don't normally care for cigars or smoking, I have to
admit after freshly grilled Mediterranean Salmon for lunch,
a petite Cuban Monte Cristo was nice. I'm kicking back here
with a Brit--Ian Munson, a wine-making consultant to some wineries
in the region, talking about the current AOC system and it's
weaknesses. |
Our first dinner in the Loire, in the town of Vendome. I mistakenly
ordered "lange de veau" thinking it was veal. It was
in fact veal, just the tongue though. I ate half of it out of
pride. |
Viviane, Lelia & I take in some fantastic cheeses after
a nice dinner at Ch. La Pujade. The selection was different
everynight. Showing up were regional faves like Camembert, Crayeus
de Roncq, Epoisses (brushed with marc), Reblechon, Raclette,
Crottin, Saint Nectaire, and hosts of others. |
One of the finest lunches we had was at Le Cheval Rouge in the
town of Montoire, in the wine region of Touraine, just northeast
of Vouvray. This incredible lime tree (popular in the area,
but different than our fruit-bearing type) was in the court-yard.
During our two-hour culinary endeavor, we would sneak out for
fresh air in the court-yard, a respite against the smoke-filled
dining room. |
We had nice dinners, and our most memorable were those with
friends. But company excluded, the most dazzling experience
was here at Domain
des Hauts de Loire, an auberge sitting right in the heart
of "castle country". Upon arriving, we were seated
in the parlor for aperitif, and from there made selections for
our seven course meal, accompanied by a good red burgundy. |
| Much More. We've much more to tell, especially
about (and I'm saving this for last) the wines. So come back
in July for the last half of our travel adventure. |
The second "half" of our photo-journal is here. |
| |
Please email info@connectwithwine.com
with any questions or comments. We look forward to hearing from
you.
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